Finding a reliable kicker plate for boat motor mounting can feel like a small detail, but it's actually one of those things that makes your life on the water a whole lot easier. If you're a fisherman, or even just someone who likes having a "get home" backup engine, you know that trying to hang a small auxiliary motor directly onto a transom designed for a massive outboard doesn't always work out. You need that extra bit of hardware to get the positioning just right.
Most of us aren't looking to win any beauty pageants with our boat rigging, but we do want things to be functional and safe. A kicker plate—sometimes called a mounting bracket or an auxiliary motor mount—gives your smaller motor a dedicated home. It keeps it out of the way of your main engine while ensuring it's at the proper depth when you actually need to use it.
Why you even need a kicker plate anyway
If you've ever tried to troll for hours using your main 200HP outboard, you already know the struggle. It's loud, it burns through gas like there's no tomorrow, and it's honestly just not built for crawling along at two knots. That's where the kicker comes in. But transoms are crowded places. Between the main engine, the swim ladder, and maybe some transducers, space is at a premium.
A kicker plate for boat motor setups allows you to offset that smaller engine. This is huge because it prevents the two motors from bumping into each other when you're turning. It also helps with weight distribution. Boats are sensitive to where you put heavy stuff, and having a plate that lets you tuck the motor into a specific spot can help keep your deck level. Plus, if your transom is a bit too high for a short-shaft kicker, the right plate can lower the motor to where the prop actually stays in the water during a swell.
Manual vs. Fixed: What's the difference?
When you start looking at these plates, you'll notice two main styles: fixed and adjustable. Each has its own crowd of fans.
Fixed plates are basically just heavy-duty brackets. You bolt them on, you bolt the motor to the plate, and that's where it stays. These are great if you have a long-shaft motor and plenty of clearance. They're simple, there are no moving parts to rust or seize up, and they're usually cheaper. If you're a "set it and forget it" kind of person, this is likely your best bet.
Adjustable plates (or lift brackets) are a bit more complex. They usually have a spring-loaded or manual lever system that lets you raise or lower the motor. This is a lifesaver if you have a shallow-draft boat or if you want to get the kicker completely out of the water when you're hauling mail with your main engine. There's nothing worse than dragging a dead motor through the water while you're trying to get on plane; it creates tons of drag and can even damage the kicker over time.
Picking the right material for the job
Since this thing is going to be living in or near the water 24/7, material choice isn't something you want to skimp on. Most kicker plates are made from either stainless steel or anodized aluminum.
If you're strictly a freshwater boater, aluminum is usually fine. It's lighter, which is nice for the back of the boat, and it's generally more affordable. However, if you're heading out into the salt, you've got to be careful. Saltwater eats metal for breakfast. You'll want high-grade stainless steel or at least very high-quality powder-coated aluminum. Even then, you'll want to keep an eye on the mounting hardware.
One thing people often forget is the wood or plastic pad that the motor actually clamps onto. Over time, these can rot or crack. A lot of the better plates now use a high-density poly material that won't rot, which is a massive upgrade over the old-school plywood blocks we used to see back in the day.
The installation headache (and how to avoid it)
Installing a kicker plate for boat motor use isn't exactly rocket science, but it's definitely a "measure twice, drill once" kind of project. You're literally drilling holes into the back of your boat, so you want to be sure you're putting them in the right spot.
The biggest mistake I see people make is mounting the plate too low. Remember, you want the prop to be deep enough to get a "bite" on the water, but you don't want the entire engine head underwater when a big wave hits. You also need to check the clearance for the tiller handle. There's nothing more frustrating than getting everything bolted down only to realize you can't actually turn the motor because the handle hits the transom.
And for the love of all things holy, use plenty of marine-grade sealant. You want those bolt holes to be watertight. If water gets into the core of your transom, you're looking at a very expensive repair job a few years down the road. Use big backing plates or large washers on the inside of the hull to spread the load, too. You don't want the weight of that motor pulling the bolts right through the fiberglass.
Handling the extra weight
Adding a second motor, even a small 9.9HP, adds a decent chunk of weight to the stern. This can change how your boat sits in the water. If you notice your boat is leaning to one side or taking longer to get on plane, you might need to adjust where you keep your batteries or fuel tanks to balance things out.
Some guys will actually mount the kicker plate on the same side as the console to offset their own weight when they're driving alone, but usually, it goes on the port side. Just be mindful of how it feels the first time you take it out after the install. It might take a bit of getting used to, especially when you're backing up or trying to stay steady in a crosswind.
Maintenance is easier than you think
Once it's on there, you don't have to do a ton of work, but you shouldn't just ignore it. If you have an adjustable plate, you should grease the moving parts every once in a while. Salt and grit can get into the tracks and make it a nightmare to move.
Check the mounting bolts periodically, too. Boats vibrate—a lot. Between the engine running and the hull hitting waves, things can wiggle loose. It only takes thirty seconds to put a wrench on the nuts and make sure they're still tight. It's way better than watching your kicker motor take a permanent dive into the lake because a couple of bolts backed out.
Is it worth the investment?
At the end of the day, a good kicker plate is about peace of mind. It keeps your trolling motor secure, protects your transom, and makes the whole setup look professional. Whether you're trying to stay on the fish all day without burning a tank of gas or you just want that safety net for when your main engine decides to be moody, the mounting plate is the foundation of that system.
Don't go for the cheapest plastic bracket you find online. Spend a little extra on something sturdy. Your motor (and your back) will thank you when you're out on the water and everything just works like it's supposed to. It's one of those upgrades that you'll appreciate every single time you drop that little motor into the water and start the quiet hum of a perfect afternoon of fishing.